-Comme des Garçons-

-FW25-

从解构到哲学 —— Rei Kawakubo 的小而强大

Comme des Garçons

是？

日本时尚品牌，由川久保玲于 1969 年创立。品牌以先锋、实验、非主流思维著称。

虽然名字法文为 “像男孩一样”（Comme des Garçons），但风格常超越性别界限。

品类扩展：除了高定 / 女装 / 男装外，还包括配饰、香水线 Comme des Garçons Parfums

Rei Kawakubo

被誉为“时尚界的哲学家 / 解构大师”。

她经常以“不服从常规、挑战形式”为核心用设计探讨身份、权力、身体、服装与社会的关系。

她曾合作 / 被策展为大型展览，例如 “Rei Kawakubo / Comme des Garçons: Art of the In-Between” 在大都会博物馆展出 140 件作品。

-FW25-

本季秀场在巴黎举行，作为 Ready-To-Wear（女装系列）发布。

总计约 20 套造型（20 dramatic looks），以极具结构感与层次的服装为主线。

本季主题之一是 “Small can be mighty”。

回归日常 / 反思大规模时尚体制是本季一种隐含逻辑。正如 AnotherMag 的标题：

“Smaller Is Stronger”: Comme des Garçons’ Revolt Against ‘Big Fashion’

-LOOK 1-

-LOOK 2-

-LOOK 3-

-LOOK 4-

-LOOK 5-

-LOOK 6-

-LOOK 7-

-LOOK 8-

-LOOK 9-

-LOOK 10-

-LOOK 11-

-LOOK 12~17-

-LOOK 18-

-LOOK 19-

-LOOK 20-

COMMENTS

:

By Sarah Mower

March 9, 2025

It is unbelievable to see the crowds of young people, teenagers, and probably fashion students who turn up to jostle and call outside the Comme des Garçons show these days. The street-noise from the fans of Rei Kawakubo was still penetrating the venue until it was over-ridden by the strong, collective voices of Bulgarian women folk singers. Then came a collection whose symbolism Kawakubo’s husband Adrian Joffe later translated as: “small can be mighty. She thinks we’re a little bit tired of big business, big culture, and global systems. What about the small things that happen over all continents, everywhere—aren’t they global, that’s not big?”

“A little bit tired”? That was a mild phrase for what we’d just seen. The always heart-in-mouth experience of watching a Comme de Garçons women’s show had just turned out to be a protest against the patriarchy—and by extension the fashion system. That, anyway, is what I read when she opened her show with five different kinds of menswear fabrics: pinstripes, checks, and gray flannels, their grotesque, inhuman 3D shapes standing in as synonyms for the uniforms of salarymen and corporations out of control.

But then, something else started to happen: the fabric of female fashion began to pile on, overlay, infiltrate. Little red and purple cocktail dresses on top of a black base, to start with. Then a big velvet crinoline. Finally, there were many layers of pink, red, and watermelon duchess satin bodices and skirts that looked like some kind of impenetrable couture armored vehicle walking towards us.

Meanwhile, on the sound-track, the recording of the Bulgarian singers—as Joffe later shared—was of “workers in the fields, harvest, families, getting things done together.” Of course this would hold symbolism for Rei Kawakubo and for Joffe about the independence of Comme des Garçons in an increasingly mega-corporation-dominated world. By extension, the everyone-working-together idea is bound into the culture of buying and supporting other young, small, and independent designers, which Kawakubo and Joffe and their teams have nurtured since the opening of the first Dover Street Market, 20 years ago. A lot of emerging talent with radical and important things to say wouldn’t stand a chance in today’s system without DSM.

Hence, the adoration of Kawakubo going on outside. She has often been the Cassandra of fashion, warning of the approaching apocalypse. But now that dystopia is actually upon us, Kawakubo offers hope in the counterfactual of the collective power of the small, banding together to make things lighter, more fun—and more female and frilly. Well, that was my understanding of this season’s Comme rorschach test. The net ruffles and the garlands and petals, the tutus and the conceptual bows eventually took over, and gradually, they won.

几大视觉关键词：

结构雕塑感

衣服不再仅仅贴合人体线条，而是像雕塑一样在空间中有自己体积与张力——诸多服装结构在空中保持刚性、折叠、扭曲状态。

几何拼接 + 多层覆叠

比传统剪裁更复杂的拼接、不对称拼片、重叠袖口或裙摆，形成视觉张力。

面料对比

如西装料、格纹、条纹、羊毛混织与轻薄材质并置，这种“硬 vs 软”的对话是本季的一大亮点。

舞者 / 静止交错

有评价写到衣服“像是冻结在运动时刻”，即便模特不动，服装形体依然有一种“正在动”的张力。

颜色语汇

黑白为主色调，夹杂格纹、暗红、深紫等作为层次点缀。

-精选 Look 解读-

Look

解读

1

采用西装条纹布料，加入不规则褶皱与扭曲处理，象征对“商务制服”的再思考。

2

几何裙摆 + 宽檐帽，帽子造型夸张，营造雕塑性头部元素。

9

黑白格纹与球状膨胀裙型混合，中层用红色 tulle 点缀，造成颜色“爆破”感。

12

半开襟拼接 + 披肩结构，似乎在断裂与重组之间游走。

18–20

高度实验性的服装拼贴、网状材质混入、面具或遮面设计，强化神秘性与身体界限的模糊。

-哲学-

-意涵-

-小，就是力量-

Kawakubo 在多个采访与报道中提到，本季主题之一就是“小可以强大（Small can be mighty）”，她认为在大型时尚体制下，独立设计和小规模实验精神尤为重要。

-对抗“庞大体制”-

川久保玲在本季设计中有意解构传统西装、制服、公司制服等象征力量的形式，以畸变、拼接、断裂表达对“大系统 / 大文化 / 大公司体系”的批判。

-身体与遮蔽-

很多作品在人体上设有遮面 / 面具 / 顶部结构，象征“身份遮蔽”或“身体边界”的模糊性。

-记忆 / 历史元素混用-

虽然风格极端前卫，Kawakubo 也借用西装面料、格纹、传统文化意象（如披肩、帽子造型）来呼应历史。但她不直接复古，而是用抽象化处理让历史“溶解”于现代视角。

-媒体与舆论-

WWD

“Comme des Garçons FW25: 'Small' but Grandiose”，评价 Rei Kawakubo 在极端形态中仍能表达出女性力量、希望与张力

阅读原文

AnotherMag

在《“Smaller Is Stronger”》一文中，作者认为 Kawakubo 正在“向大时尚体制宣战”，她拒绝妥协与商业扩张，以小规模设计为立足点。

阅读原文

Culted

称她的服装像是“冻结在运动瞬间”，几何结构被描绘为具有张力的雕塑。

阅读原文

-重返秀场-